Tailor-Made: Fashion Photographs from the Collection of Peter Fetterman

Phillips  announce Tailor-Made: Fashion Photographs from the Collection of Peter Fetterman

, an exclusive online auction that celebrates a century of fashion photography, tracing the history of women’s fashion through 64 quintessential images spanning from the 1920s to today. Drawn from the collection of esteemed gallerist and collector Peter Fetterman, Tailor-Made includes work by legendary fashion photographers Lillian Bassman, Sarah Moon, Sheila Metzner, Gordon Parks, Ormond Gigli, William Klein, and Horst P. Horst, among many others. The sale will be live to bidders worldwide June 18 – 25 on Phillips.com. A portion of the proceeds will be donated to the Equal Justice Initiative to help further their mission to end mass incarceration and excessive punishment in the US, and to challenge racial and economic injustice, and to protect basic human rights for the most vulnerable people in American society.

For more than 30 years, Mr. Fetterman has collected and championed the work of the photographers represented in this sale, with many of them becoming close personal friends. “While the essence of fashion is beauty and dreams,” states Mr. Fetterman, “these photographers taught me so much about the context in which their images were made. The photographers represented here shaped my eye and my taste, for which I owe them all a great debt. Further, in the context of rampant injustice now being foregrounded in this country, I’m pleased to support the Equal Justice Initiative whose work I deeply admire.”

Sarah Krueger, Head of the Photographs Department in New York, states: “It is a pleasure to partner once again with Peter Fetterman on a sale of such exciting material. While fashion photography is a regular presence in our auctions, it is a new and entirely thrilling experience to work with a collection like this, assembled over the years with such singular focus and flare.”


Girls in the Windows, New York City  1960

Chromogenic print, printed later.
49 1/2 x 49 1/2 in. (125.7 x 125.7 cm)
Signed, dated and numbered 50/75 in ink on the reverse of the mount.

$30,000  50,000 

SOLD FOR $52,500

Sheila Metzner Campidoglio, 1986.
Tailor-Made: Fashion Photographs from the Collection of Peter Fetterman, 18-25 June.

Fashion photography has long been a driver of innovation in the medium, both technically and aesthetically, and this depth and breadth of creativity is demonstrated throughout Tailor-Made

Highlighting the sale are works by Sarah Moon, whose bold, impressionistic use of color and deft manipulation of light and movement result in images that defy expectations. Sheila Metzner is another of fashion photography’s iconoclasts, and her Campidoglio plays with scale and movement within a setting that is simultaneously classical and surreal. Lillian Bassman rounds out this trio of women photographers for whom mood, atmosphere, and gesture embody elegance and style. 

Driven to create ever-new imagery to keep pace with the evolving styles, photographers continually created new modes and innovative ways to showcase fashion. Melvin Sokolsky placed his models in bubbles on location in New York and Paris, creating iconic images of mid-century technology and culture, while Ormond Gigli surmounted the many logistical and technical challenges in making his instantly recognizable Models in the Windows, New York City.

Sarah Moon

Fashion 4, Yohji Yamamoto, 1996 Estimate: $40,000 – 60,000


William Klein abandoned the controlled confines of the studio to make images that have more in common with his street work than conventional fashion photography. Jerry Schatzberg and Gordon Parks, who both worked in cinema, bring a sense of movement and narrative to their imagery. While Georges Dambier, Norman Parkinson, Brian Duffy, and William Helburn create impossibly elegant images of modern women moving through the metropolis.


More Fashion Mileage Per Dress, Barbara Vaughn, dress by Filcol, New York

Gelatin silver print, printed later.
26 1/4 x 34 1/2 in. (66.7 x 87.6 cm)
Signed and numbered 11/25 in pencil on the verso.

$12,000  18,000

SOLD FOR $15,000


Over New York

Archival pigment print, printed later.
49 x 59 in. (124.5 x 149.9 cm)
Signed, titled and dated in ink on the verso. Number 3 from an edition of 5.

$15,000  25,000

SOLD FOR $18,750


Paris Gala Night, Barbara Mullen, Dress by Patou, Paris

Gelatin silver print, printed later.
18 1/2 x 20 3/4 in. (47 x 52.7 cm)
Signed and numbered 20/25 in pencil on the verso.

$5,000  7,000

Portraits of Humanity 2019 Winners revealed.

The 50 winning and 200 shortlisted Portrait of Humanity images have been announced.

 1854 Media, publisher of British Journal of Photography, in partnership with Magnum Photos, have created Portrait of Humanity – an award aiming to unite the global community through the power of photography. The winning and shortlisted portraits have now been revealed to the world. They show that there is more that unites us than sets us apart.

 The judging panel, comprised of international industry leaders, have selected the 50 winning portraits. Each will be exhibited at celebrated galleries, museums and photography festivals across the world. 

The 50 winning portraits will embark on a global tour from September 2019 – January 2020. 

  • September 2019, Organ Vida International Photography Festival, Zagreb, Croatia
  • October – November 2019, LagosPhoto Festival, Lagos, Nigeria
  • November 2019, National Centre For Photography, Ballarat, Victoria, Australia
  • November 2019 – January 2020, Louisiana State Museum as part of PhotoNOLA Festival, New Orleans, United States

 The 200 shortlisted portraits will be featured in the Portrait of Humanity book, published by Hoxton Mini Press and distributed worldwide. The Portrait of Humanity book is available for pre-order here.

 View the 50 winning images here: bjp.photo/pohwinner

View the 200 shortlisted images here: bjp.photo/pohshortlist

The 100 commended images, chosen by Clear Channel, will be announced in the coming weeks. These will be displayed on Clear Channel out-of-home digital screens worldwide, and seen by millions.

 The 1st, 2nd and 3rd place winners will share $10,000 in grant awards, to create projects that explore their interpretations of humanity. They will also be announced in the coming weeks.

 20 images have also been chosen by Photography on a Postcard. These will be on display at Photo London, and contribute to the The Hepatitis C Trust’s campaign to eliminate the hepatitis C virus by 2025.

Magnum Photographer Paolo Pellegrin Anthology

Paolo Pellegrin is known today as one of the world’s leading photojournalists and conflict photographers. The winner of ten World Press Photo awards and the Robert Capa Gold Medal (among many others), he has been a full member of Magnum since 2005.

Reform and Dreams – Kings Cross

A brand new free photography exhibition celebrating the 40th anniversary of China’s Reform and Opening up will launch on Monday 10 December at London’s Kings Cross Station.  

Commissioned by the China International Culture & Image Communication Corporation “Reform and Dreams” will feature 80 stunning individual photographs taken over the last 40 years by photographers of the Xinhua News Agency, China’s biggest and most influential media organisation.  Giving a unique insight into the lives of Chinese people, this is the first time the images have been shown together and many have never been seen before in the United Kingdom.

Each of the 80 images capture offer insight into daily life in China since 1978 and showcase the close relationship between China and the United Kingdom, over what has proven to be an extraordinary time of change to China’s development path.  Together the images show the power of the Chinese people and detail how Reform and Opening Up in China have enabled its people aspire to better lives and explore beyond their borders.

For a limited time only, this free photography exhibition will be positioned throughout the concourse of London’s King’s Cross station before going on to tour to Paris.

Mr Gu, Chief of Xinhua’s London Bureau comments: “Never before has such a unique photographic celebration of China’s Reform and Opening Up been brought to London.  With this exhibition we want to show a developing China, and the optimism and enthusiasm of Chinese people in the process of this development.

  “Every Chinese person has played their part in these 40 years of history. Their dreams have converged to form the irresistible power that has propelled China’s development. This exhibition tells the stories of the lives of these ordinary Chinese people for whom past four decades have meant so much.

Media Preview: Monday 10 December at 10am

The China International Culture & Image Communication Corporation will host a preview of the exhibition at meeting on the station concourse of London King’s Cross.

How do you photograph fracking?

Since September 2018, photographer Rhiannon Adam has been documenting individuals on both sides of the fracking debate. For Adam, listening to an individual’s story dictates how she photographs them. Her ultimate aim: to redirect the narrative away from the singular news piece and give an identity to those involved.  

Located midway between Preston and Blackpool, Preston New Road became the focal point of the fracking debate after Cuadrilla Resources applied to drill at the site in 2014. The UK government gave the final go-ahead this summer and the first frack took place on 15 October 2018, midway through Adam’s project. This is the first time fracking has taken place in the UK since a moratorium on the practice was lifted in late 2012.

Adam centred her series on the activities at Preston New Road. Working at and around the site for four months to date, she immersed herself in the everyday lives of those on the frontline of the fracking resistance. Adam also photographed campaigners from elsewhere, high-profile anti-fracking spokespeople, and individuals in support of the practice. She captured each subject in a context different to that in which they might otherwise be shown.

Featured subjects include: the 87-year-old campaigner Anne Power; fashion designer and activist Vivienne Westwood; and Simon Roscoe Blevins – one of three campaigners who were briefly imprisoned in September 2018 for their part in an anti-fracking protest.  

All images copyright Rhiannon Adam. All text copyright Hannah Abel-Hirsch, Studio 1854.”

Kai and Callum

“When you do a 12 hour night shift at Gate Camp you have to keep yourself awake somehow; I try and read my books for university” 

Kai, 20, and Callum, 22, are a couple who met at Maple Farm Camp. “I was doing a photo project during the summer when I stumbled across this,” says Kai, gesturing to Callum. “I thought, ‘he is nice to take pictures of.’” The two now share a tent in Maple Farm’s backfield. 

Every Wednesday the couple take the night shift at Gate Camp; for 12 hours they sit and monitor Cuadrilla’s activities in and out of the main gate. Kai is studying a BA in Photography at Blackpool and the Fylde College and stays awake by reading. “When I was by myself I used to get panicky with my coursework: topics and big words that I did not understand,” she says. “But, living in this community, I can just ask someone and chat through it. I find it a lot easier.” Kai’s mum brought her to the site for the first time. “She wanted to come down, but she is quite ill and needs help walking. She was anxious so I was like I’ll come too,” says Kai. “The next week she didn’t come; she got really ill. So I came down by myself, and again the week after that, and I just never really left.” 

Both feel disillusioned with the preoccupations of many people their age. “When you are protesting something like this, a lot of conversation can seem quite pointless – talking about I’m a Celebrity, Love Island etc.” says Callum, whose mum, Katerina Lawrie, is also a resident of the Maple Farm Camp. “I got really passionate about it very quickly,” says Kai. “I had a big group of friends and none of them understood at all.”

John Tootill

“This industry is in its death throes — very soon it will cease. It cannot carry on as it has no future whatsoever” 

John Tootill has run Maple Farm Nursery, located just 800 metres from Preston New Road, for 34 years. He lives there with his family. “I started the business with my dad. We worked together as a team for many years until his death a couple of years ago,” he says. “My dad was extremely concerned by Cuadrilla’s proposals to carry out fracking so close to our nursery and feared the worst for his family home and business.” Tootill had no idea about fracking when Cuadrilla Resources first applied to drill near his home. After discovering what the process was, and the risks it posed, he was horrified: “I am just trying to defend my family, my community and all the things that I have been brought up to believe in.” 

One of Tootill’s concerns is the effect that the practice could have on his livelihood. “I want people to be able to visit the nursery without fearing for their health and their children’s health.” He donated a portion of his land to the protectors, on which they have set up Maple Farm Camp. “It is a big sacrifice because it is a site on the main road, which, from a business point of view, is an important location,” he says. “I am happy that it is being used to further the campaign against this harmful process.” The camp also provides a “safe haven” for protectors: “Maple Farm offers a refuge for people to feel secure because the policing can be very oppressive.”

ootill himself has had a number of run-ins with the police. On the gates of Maple Farm Camp, a collection of large signs denounce fracking and the myriad dangers associated with it. In 2016, Fylde Borough Council sought to prosecute Tootill for unauthorised advertising. The case was dropped by the Council once his barrister disclosed to the court that the decision to prosecute him was made by Fylde borough councillors who had received money from Cuadrilla. He has been arrested twice: once for obstructing the road, and again for obstructing a police officer during an anti-fracking protest. The charges were dropped for both cases. “One of the reasons I was targeted by the police is because I am a local businessman,” he says. “I am seen as the face of respectability; that is not the face that industry and the government want showing opposition to them. And I have made my opposition very, very clear.” 

Cuadrilla’s activities at Preston New Road have polarised the local community. “Cuadrilla has worked on this community for years: they have splashed money around, to all sorts of organisations: sports programmes, football and rugby clubs, schools, village halls, the list goes on,” says Tootill. “Many local people are frightened to show opposition to what is being imposed on them.” But, Tootill has remained dedicated to the fight. “The sooner that this dirty, reckless industry packs up and goes, the sooner I can get on with normal life,” he says. “Stopping it here will empower people to stand up for their communities in other places where the industry is trying to get a hold.”

Anne Power 

“I am very prone to get angry; that saves me from getting scared” 

“I did not realise that this was going to change my life so fully,” says Anne Power, 87, who made headlines when police dragged her across Preston New Road outside the fracking site after she refused to move from the entrance “I have got to 87 [she was 85 at the time] without ever being injured on the road; I know how to manage things for heaven’s sake.” Anne’s grandfather was a policeman. He died after sustaining injuries while saving children from an oncoming cyclist. “I had such a respect for the police,” she says. This is no longer the case.  

Anne has been demonstrating against fracking for five years. At least twice a week she drives back-and-forth, between the site and her home in Manchester. Often, she travels through the night to ferry people from site to site. Last summer, 2017, she spent four nights in her car on the roadside, just beside Preston New Road. A group of protectors built two towers at the gate. “I was watching while I was dozing; I couldn’t tell whether they had built it on the bonnet of my car or not.” 


“I have done things that I would have never expected,” says Anne, who originally, if not reluctantly, trained as a teacher. Disillusioned by the curriculum, she retrained as a personal counsellor and started her own practice in 1981 in a small cottage in the hills of Lancashire. That same year she joined the Green Party. “My life dovetailed in that way: I found a political philosophy for the first time and a personal philosophy that really suited me.” Today, Anne devotes the bottom floor of her house to the activities of Party members. “I got involved in the fracking resistance because it started at Barton Moss, very near to where I live.” she says. “I had just moved house and had the stair carpet laid. I went to an anti-fracking meeting in Eccles; the next day I went to the protest camp and from then I was just there every day, relentlessly. I never finished moving into my house.” This year, Anne has, in her own words: “focused on making more of a nest for herself.”

Produced by Studio 1854 & the British Journal of Photography.

Rhiannon Adam’s photo story – Fractured Stories – is a British Journal of Photography commission supported by Ecotricity.

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