Phillips announce Tailor-Made: Fashion Photographs from the Collection of Peter Fetterman
, an exclusive online auction that celebrates a century of fashion photography, tracing the history of women’s fashion through 64 quintessential images spanning from the 1920s to today. Drawn from the collection of esteemed gallerist and collector Peter Fetterman, Tailor-Made includes work by legendary fashion photographers Lillian Bassman, Sarah Moon, Sheila Metzner, Gordon Parks, Ormond Gigli, William Klein, and Horst P. Horst, among many others. The sale will be live to bidders worldwide June 18 – 25 on Phillips.com. A portion of the proceeds will be donated to the Equal Justice Initiative to help further their mission to end mass incarceration and excessive punishment in the US, and to challenge racial and economic injustice, and to protect basic human rights for the most vulnerable people in American society.
For more than 30 years, Mr. Fetterman has collected and championed the work of the photographers represented in this sale, with many of them becoming close personal friends. “While the essence of fashion is beauty and dreams,” states Mr. Fetterman, “these photographers taught me so much about the context in which their images were made. The photographers represented here shaped my eye and my taste, for which I owe them all a great debt. Further, in the context of rampant injustice now being foregrounded in this country, I’m pleased to support the Equal Justice Initiative whose work I deeply admire.”
Sarah Krueger, Head of the Photographs Department in New York, states: “It is a pleasure to partner once again with Peter Fetterman on a sale of such exciting material. While fashion photography is a regular presence in our auctions, it is a new and entirely thrilling experience to work with a collection like this, assembled over the years with such singular focus and flare.”
Girls in the Windows, New York City 1960
Chromogenic print, printed later.
49 1/2 x 49 1/2 in. (125.7 x 125.7 cm)
Signed, dated and numbered 50/75 in ink on the reverse of the mount.
$30,000 – 50,000
SOLD FOR $52,500
Fashion photography has long been a driver of innovation in the medium, both technically and aesthetically, and this depth and breadth of creativity is demonstrated throughout Tailor-Made.
Highlighting the sale are works by Sarah Moon, whose bold, impressionistic use of color and deft manipulation of light and movement result in images that defy expectations. Sheila Metzner is another of fashion photography’s iconoclasts, and her Campidoglio plays with scale and movement within a setting that is simultaneously classical and surreal. Lillian Bassman rounds out this trio of women photographers for whom mood, atmosphere, and gesture embody elegance and style.
Driven to create ever-new imagery to keep pace with the evolving styles, photographers continually created new modes and innovative ways to showcase fashion. Melvin Sokolsky placed his models in bubbles on location in New York and Paris, creating iconic images of mid-century technology and culture, while Ormond Gigli surmounted the many logistical and technical challenges in making his instantly recognizable Models in the Windows, New York City.
Fashion 4, Yohji Yamamoto, 1996 Estimate: $40,000 – 60,000
William Klein abandoned the controlled confines of the studio to make images that have more in common with his street work than conventional fashion photography. Jerry Schatzberg and Gordon Parks, who both worked in cinema, bring a sense of movement and narrative to their imagery. While Georges Dambier, Norman Parkinson, Brian Duffy, and William Helburn create impossibly elegant images of modern women moving through the metropolis.
More Fashion Mileage Per Dress, Barbara Vaughn, dress by Filcol, New York
Gelatin silver print, printed later.
26 1/4 x 34 1/2 in. (66.7 x 87.6 cm)
Signed and numbered 11/25 in pencil on the verso.
$12,000 – 18,000
SOLD FOR $15,000
Over New York
Archival pigment print, printed later.
49 x 59 in. (124.5 x 149.9 cm)
Signed, titled and dated in ink on the verso. Number 3 from an edition of 5.
$15,000 – 25,000
SOLD FOR $18,750
Paris Gala Night, Barbara Mullen, Dress by Patou, Paris
Gelatin silver print, printed later.
18 1/2 x 20 3/4 in. (47 x 52.7 cm)
Signed and numbered 20/25 in pencil on the verso.
$5,000 – 7,000